In the garment-production process, reverse engineering the 3-D designed garment pattern in a virtual realm, into the 2-D pattern pieces, is problematic. My area of research is in producing robust 2-D pattern profiles that can be passed onto the 3-D virtual environment. I have developed a different approach to custom-fit garment pattern design, based on new pattern drafting coordinates cooperating with fabric stretch characteristics, conforming to the shape of a person, using a personally extended set of traditional measurements.
Currently, assessing fabric stretch extension for pattern construction is dependent on subjective expertise. Industry standards use laboratory- based electronic testing instruments for the climatically controlled measurement of tensile characteristics of cut samples, but these are for QA/QC, which is inappropriate for pattern construction.
The aim was to develop a simple qualitative and quantitative procedure for objectively measuring, recording and specifying fabric characteristics that can be implemented for pattern design. The method used to determine the specific force/load involved laboratory pre-test conditioning of sample fabrics in differing weights and percentages of elastane, which were then subject to electronic tensile testing. Having established a force/load working range, a hanger/load test method was devised and used in the development of a new approach to stretch pattern design.
The invention is a compact, portable testing instrument that measures the degree of extension of planar materials having a low modulus of elasticity, such as stretch fabrics containing elastane. The unique feature of the invention is the fabric clamping arrangement. The measurement procedure need not be subject to laboratory conditions. Measurements can be taken on a portion of fabric that may form part of a roll of fabric, a made-up garment or a cut sample.
The hand-held device for quantifying fabric stretch extension can be used in haptic practices or inputted into a CAD system.
|Type of Research:||Patent|
|Additional Information (Publicly available):|
Penelope Watkins' Current Research
My background is 3D design and technical fashion. My enduring passion is in merging technical and aesthetic considerations providing comfort - physiological and psychological - and ease of movement, through appropriate garment fit. I am interested in integrating craft based techniques and emerging new technologies from body scanning to virtual CAD.
|Your affiliations with UAL:||Colleges > London College of Fashion|
|Date:||08 March 2007|
|Digital Object Identifier:||PCT Patent Application Reference PCT/GB2006/003210|
|Deposited By:||INVALID USER|
|Deposited On:||07 Dec 2009 09:28|
|Last Modified:||06 Oct 2011 12:29|