Lace #1 - CAD/CAM Industrial Woven Jacquard Design

Lace #1 illustrates the result of my design research investigation into a CAD/CAM industrial woven jacquard textile design method. It explores the ability to completely control warp and weft threads movement away from the usual 90-degree positions, whilst being woven, using an industrial production method and not requiring post weaving manual manipulation. The resultant design creates a ‘lace’ effect without relying on a specialist lace loom and can be woven on a standard industrial jacquard loom. This design and subsequent developments have been developed not to replicate existing fabric methods but are an innovative design method in its own right.

This was a design technical construction project, therefore the final end use and meaning of the design is constituted not by the designer, but by the consumer further down the supply chain.

Lace #1 is a development on from own previous research question investigating ‘on-loom’ finishing effects within the industrial woven jacquard process. The resultant prototypes require only scouring and stentering with no additional finishing processes such as pleating or embroidery.

The outcomes of my research have a dual focus: creative and innovative fabrics; and a new approach to the standard industrial production method. The research includes investigation of CAD/CAM, yarn and woven structure innovation to achieve these ’on loom’ effects. Both my research and professional practice require a keen awareness of new developments in yarn, fabric and structural processes.

Current Research

Investigation into the Development of Design Led, Integrated Woven Textile Circuits, Switches and Sensors. (Textile Systems)

Alongside the existing on going research, new research (commenced 2004) is an investigation into the design and production of conductive woven fabrics, which can be used in conjunction with electronic components. Researching, both the suitability for electronic function (of both yarns and resultant construction) and the aesthetics of these fabrics for use within a fashion/clothing/interior end use. Initial prototypes developed and applied into garment construction and tested, include, textile pressure/touch sensors, textile stretch sensors, textile heat pad, textile galvanic skin response sensor and textile circuits for both power and data. The potential for patenting is presently being investigated. The initial developments have been part of a joint research project with Sharon Baurley and Andrew Moore.

CAD/CAM Woven Jacquard 'on - loom' Finishing Effects
The research investigates 'on-loom' finishing effects within the industrial CAD/CAM woven jacquard process. The resultant prototypes require only scouring and stentering. The research poses the hypothesis that previously finished surface effects i.e. post woven embellishments (pleating, embroidery etc) can be achieved at the earlier weaving stage.

The outcomes of this research have a dual focus: creative and innovative fabrics; and new approaches to the industrial production method. The fabrics developed in this research are not to replicate existing fabric methods but are a product in their own right. The research includes investigation of CAD/CAM, yarn and woven structure innovation to achieve these 'on loom' effects and the potential for cost, time and energy efficiency. Both the research and professional practice require a keen awareness of new developments in yarn, fabric and finishing processes and existing and potentially new markets.

Investigating the Construction of Specialist Woven fabrics for Laser Cutting and Etching.