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UAL Research Online

Politics of Luxury: The Burdens of Culture and Ideology in Sartorial Exchanges

Bartlett, Djurdja (2019) Politics of Luxury: The Burdens of Culture and Ideology in Sartorial Exchanges. In: La Tentation du Luxe, 21 February 2019, Collège d'Études Mondiales/Fondation Maison des sciences de l'homme, Paris.

Type of Research: Conference, Symposium or Workshop Item
Creators: Bartlett, Djurdja
Description:

In the early 2000s, the journey that took post-Soviet, newly wealthy Russians from a taste for the merely expensive to the rare-and-expensive produced a style which became known as ‘oligarch chic’. The term pointed towards the emblematic travel from the practices of haphazard conspicuous consumption to the acquisition of symbolically more complex expressions of luxury, and mapped the trajectory of the new economic capital possessed by the Russian super rich to a new symbolic capital of sophisticated luxury consumption transferred from the West.

Recently, some fashion practitioners providing from the ex-East, such as Demna Gvasalia, chief designer of both the fashion company Vetements and the Parisian fashion house Balenciaga, excelled in translating the Soviet ugly into a new western beautiful, and selling it at high prices, while simultaneously challenging notions of beauty, ugliness, banality, stereotypes and cultural appropriation.

This presentation explores these two very different types of sartorial exchange in the field of contemporary luxury in the context of their respective culturally and ideologically burdened references.

Official Website: http://www.fmsh.fr/fr/college-etudesmondiales/29962
Keywords/subjects not otherwise listed: Balenciaga, post-socialist spectres, transnational fashion, Vetements
Your affiliations with UAL: Colleges > London College of Fashion
Date: 21 February 2019
Event Location: Collège d'Études Mondiales/Fondation Maison des sciences de l'homme, Paris
Date Deposited: 12 Sep 2019 15:21
Last Modified: 12 Sep 2019 15:21
Item ID: 14862
URI: http://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/id/eprint/14862

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