Concept, context and communication

Abstract

The paper exposes the findings of the design research methodology developed through my recently completed practice led PhD at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. The work is informed by contemporary reactions against ‘fast fashion’ and the emergence of conceptual and experimental fashion. It exposes new and interdisciplinary approaches to creating and communicating at the intersection of fashion, fine art and performance from the perspective of the fashion designer. The process of design developed here focused on the body, experimentation and testing, reaffirming the emphasis on the creative process and addressing context as fundamental to the communication of clothing centred concepts.

The research method within the practice explored the potential of communicating body-related concepts and behaviours to wearers and viewers through the medium of clothing. The collections of concept-based work were specifically designed to encourage particular movements or behaviours. The potential for these garments to physically and emotionally communicate messages to wearers and viewers has been tested and analysed on a range of wearers and in a variety of contexts and written up as three major case studies.

The paper uncovers the complicated network of communication between designer, wearer and viewer of concept led fashion design. It will discuss how the individual’s understanding of the body affects this communication and reading, specifically looking at experiential, emotional and physical factors and contextual effects of wearing and viewing clothing.

The paper discusses how the design method and findings of the case studies have the potential to be employed in a range of disciplines that use the body and clothing to communicate meaning. It also demonstrates how the method has been employed in a live context in collaboration with Union Dance for ‘Sensing Change’, (2005), performed at venues such as The Queen Elizabeth Hall the Linbury Space at the Royal Opera House, London. This will be illustrated with a series of photographs from the case studies and the final performance.