Making Circles: Circular Transitions Conference Exhibition

It is only when we see examples of circular design approaches in their physical forms that we really begin to understand their true potential. The work of these 45 individuals, companies and organisations provides a wealth of tactile, aesthetic, functional and sensory ideas that cannot be captured through writing. We have to make, enact and experience circular fashion textile design concepts in order to appreciate the complexity, the strategic decision-making, and the practical considerations of transitioning to a more circular industry and culture. The three conference themes – materials, models and mindsets – are here explored through 25 exhibits which all offer the viewer a different perspective on designing for a more efficient and thoughtful use of resources. In the Materials section we ask ourselves to think about the stuff we are going to put into the system in the first place – can we avoid ‘monstrous hybrids’ and make products as ‘pure’ as they can possibly be? (Eccomi, Muto); could we make futuristic mono-material forms ourselves at home? (Material Activism); can we create ultra-fast materials that enable fashion users to be conscious consumers yet still responsive to trends? (A.S.A.P.) As our modern lives demand so much more from textiles, the range of blended materials in use continues to grow, and creates some of the biggest challenges for the circularity of the industry. But how blended is our wardrobe in reality? (112) The Material Handling Collection allows visitors to have a feel of new materials created by emerging and leading researchers.

In the Models section we switch our fashion brains into furniture mode as we consider how reupholstery – essentially replacing an old fabric with a ‘new’ one – can inform and influence circular behaviours and practices (ReThread / Mutton chairs). One model for creating transparency and connectivity via QR codes (DfC) for brands and users; and another model for design activist approaches to upcycling, offered via open source platforms (Space Between), demonstrate that the next generation of designers are radical thinkers and effective communicators and strategists. The Models Handling Collection encourages play and interaction with a range of new design tools. Our changing Mindsets are going to be key for our circular futures. So, appropriately, the work here is softer and more subtle. How can we design to change mindsets? We don’t know yet, is the answer. But we do know that we can design with different questions and intention and that is where change can begin. We consider how designers can use great literature to valorise waste (Shakespeare Scarf); we connect silent meditation and prolonged eye contact, with co-creation and bridge-building for interdisciplinary research (Silence Shirt); we seek to be our whole selves as designers, so that we can connect with others and work towards authentic change (Transitionary Textiles); and we look at moth hole and damage and see not the end of the lifecycle but the beginning of something exquisite and unique – and a place for us to interact and enjoy our own clothes in new ways (Reknitting Sampler Jumper). The Mindsets Handling Collection present garments and tools that explore where the artist and the industry meet to lead the change.

The Posters section of the exhibition gives space to some of the most formative and influential projects and organisations of our time – from across the UK, Europe and Asia. They are here to represent the importance of making – not just things – but making things happen – they make circles with people and communities. In a similar vein, the film trailer (Reverse Forward) celebrates 20 years of the now iconic Chelsea College of Arts research group, TED Textiles.

Last – but very far from least – the Student and Graduate Showcase demonstrates to us all what this research work is ultimately all about. The teaching and curriculum development that is already evident in the field leaves us with the knowledge that the next generation of designers are well able to deliver a circular future. This work celebrates the passion, energy, diversity and courage that emerging circular designers and entrepreneurs are rapidly gaining a reputation for.

• http://circulartransitions.org/