Margaret Nicholson, embroideress and teacher, an exploration of her legacy

This paper will identify Margaret Nicholson's history, legacy and influence within the development of fashion embroidery education at the London College of Fashion, as catalyst for transition from training to design education and establishing the foundation that allowed for the later successful development of embroidery to degree and post-graduate awards.

The Embroiderer's Guild is a key association for embroidery with 'charitable aims' to build awareness of stitch and textile art. Their intention is to develop a ‘library’ from members' contributions of their profiles as embroiderers and textile artists from around the world (Big Names and Big Icons). Within one library section, Big Names are nominations of people who are defined as 'actively leading, challenging, innovating and nurturing embroidery today". Within a second section, Big Icons are identified as icons of stitch whose work continues to inspire each generation, this latter section currently containing Margaret Nicholson. The definition of the stitch icons is that 'Their influence is far-reaching and touches many, from those who are keen to develop their stitching skills to others who are continually pushing the boundaries of art and design'.

The fashion industry in the West End of London has a long history of producing exclusive hand crafted clothes for women. By the end of the 19th century, London however was in danger of losing trade to Paris owing to a lack of skilled workers. In response to this trade schools were set up with needle-trade skills at the centre of the curriculum. In 1906, three trade schools were established at Barrett Street, Shoreditch and Clapham, related to local industries in the West End that were to become the London College of Fashion providing skilled workers for the couture garment trade until the 1950’s. Embroidery students were taught hand and machine embroidery, braiding, fringing, metal thread and beadwork.

Following her graduation from Sheffield College of Art Margaret worked initially as a dress designer within industry until the outbreak of war in 1939. Having enjoyed working within the local community during the war she decided to pursue a career in design education becoming a teacher as well as an examiner in the world of embroidery, member of the Craft Council of the Women’s Institute, Embroiderers’ Guild and the Society of Designer Craftsmen. In 1965 she joined the staff of The London College of Fashion with a remit to rethink the successful technical course to embrace understanding of the creative textile design process that she herself firmly believed as fundamental. This reconsideration of pedagogy applied to both hand craft and hand operated embroidery practice and was to remain so during future course and curriculum development.

The paper will draw upon artefacts, archival collections and photographs, interview and oral history sources to establish that Margaret can be defined in Embroiderers' Guild terms not only as a Big Icon but also recognised for the legacy of her the pivotal role in this transition from trade to design.

Research paper presented at the 2 day conference, ‘Transition: Rethinking Textiles and Surfaces on 26th and 27th November, 2014, University of Huddersfield. The conference proposed ‘to explore the future of textiles and surfaces within different industries and context and to examine current and future developments in the field asking: how might we rethink textiles and surface in a climate of transition?’.