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UAL Research Online

Refashioning London's Bespoke and Demi-Bespoke tailors; new textiles, technology and design in contemporary menswear.

Ross, Frances (2007) Refashioning London's Bespoke and Demi-Bespoke tailors; new textiles, technology and design in contemporary menswear. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 98 (3). pp. 281-288. ISSN 0040-5000

Type of Research: Article
Creators: Ross, Frances

This exploratory study was conducted in 2005 in the main London tailoring districts to understand what was currently happening in textiles, colour, style and manufacture. Historically, delineated tailoring districts are mapped out into a new 'style-typology', based on the researcher's ethnographic observations and interviews.

The established tailoring terms 'bespoke' and 'made-to-measure' are discussed in secondary and primary analysis, with the emerging new concept 'demi-bespoke' identified by the researcher. Other technological changes, such as body-scanning, advancement in fabrics and computerized manufacture are also investigated. Multi-cultural tailoring styles are examined through in-depth interviews and ethnographic research. The conclusion evaluates the notion of 'new' and assesses the paradigm shift occurring from traditional handcrafted tailoring to a more technological 'demi-bespoke' style of menswear fashion.

The initial research was presented at The Textile Institute 84th Annual World Conference March 2005 as "Refashioning London tailors; a study of how new textiles and designs in men's contemporary fashion are challenging traditional bespoke tailoring traditions".

A version of the original paper was also presented and published at the 5th International Istanbul Textile Conference, May 2005.

Official Website: http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~db=all~content=a781799025
Additional Information (Publicly available):

This expanding study is positioned with an international peer group profile of authors researching menswear including Christopher Breward and Paul Jobling. The methodological approach to this subject includes discourse analysis, semiotics and qualitative ethnographic research, adding a valuable original multi disciplined perspective and contribution to knowledge of contemporary menswear.

Your affiliations with UAL: Colleges > London College of Fashion
Date: 2007
Digital Object Identifier: DOI: 10.1080/00405000701550205
Related Websites: http://www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/frances-ross.htm#
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Date Deposited: 07 Dec 2009 09:58
Last Modified: 27 Aug 2010 13:05
Item ID: 1023
URI: https://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/id/eprint/1023

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