Silent Protest: the questionable existence, role and impact of political jewellery in Iran as a response to war

This is a practice-based PhD that seeks to examine to what extent jewellery has a role as a form of political messaging in Iran. It argues that jewellery as a response to political events from 1980 is an under-developed area of research that can be harnessed to address social and political issues.

The research aims to consider the efficacy of jewellery as a political communicator relating to protest, war and conflict. It investigates the motivation to make political jewellery, why people wear it and in what context. Additionally, it considers the impact of political jewellery in various campaigns.

Can jewellery be challenged to deliver a subtle yet overt, political message? Jewellery and politics share the potential for communication; therefore, can jewellery provide an opportunity to influence political views effectively? Can it create or narrow a gap between the maker, the wearer and audience?

The research methodology combined secondary research - contextual reviews and theoretical influences - with primary research, interviews with contemporary Iranian artists and questionnaires targeting Iranian women. These fed into the practice experiments, with outputs themselves generating theory.

My jewellery practice shows how a language of resistance translates into messages, both overground and underground. It contributes to new knowledge on how jewellery allows women in Iran, overtly and covertly, to express themselves.

The research topic of the existence and role of political jewellery in Iran has not previously been examined or represented. The research advances knowledge in the field of jewellery by pushing it in new directions, towards a language of protest and as a political tool. It questions the existence, role and impact of political jewellery in Iran and asks how it can be strengthened and made visible. It enquires to what extent jewellery might give a voice to women in Iran, provoking social engagement or political ideas. Specifically, the research explores ‘Silent Protest’ as a material practice in Iran. Further, it highlights the critical relevance of the ways jewellery contributes to design discourse.

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