Fashion and Function: Factors Affecting the Design and Use of Protective Clothing

Unlike fashion, the process of designing and developing protective clothing is normally seen as a classic example of product development, with clear parameters set at the outset, and stringent performance standards to be met within specific occupations. The notion of fashion entering into this market is counter-intuitive to many. This chapter developed new models for guiding this process and identified key criteria for successful design in this context, highlighting the overlooked role of ‘fashionability’ in ensuring protective clothing is adopted by the target group. It discusses the role of fashion in expressing personal identity, and the impact of branded sportswear as a perceived benchmark for menswear, despite performance standards not being met. New data was generated through comparative research and interviews with personnel responsible for clothing in the police and fire services.

Sandy Black designed the chapter and its scope, and contributed 60% of the written material, directing and working with the co-authors on particular aspects. Veronika Kapsali (whose PhD was supervised by Black) contributed text on clothing systems and two new models outlining the functionalities and performance requirements of a range of available textiles to inform design choices. Jeni Bougourd contributed text and model for the product development process in clothing. Frances Geesin contributed a literature and product survey.

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