We use cookies on this website, you can read about them here. To use the website as intended please... ACCEPT COOKIES
UAL Research Online

The cultural economy of fashion buying

Entwistle, Joanne (2006) The cultural economy of fashion buying. Current Sociology, Special Issue, Encounters in the Global Fashion Industry., 54 (5). pp. 704-724. ISSN 00113921

Type of Research: Article
Creators: Entwistle, Joanne

The aim of this article is to examine the qualification and mediation of fashionable clothing by fashion buyers at Selfridges, London. The author examines the ‘active and reflexive role of economic agents in the qualification of products’ in their ‘habitual and routine’ working practices, describing how buyers are active in defining, shaping, transforming, qualifying and requalifiying products. Through this qualification process, buyers act upon markets, their selections resulting in the assemblage of products on the shop-floor that constitute fashionable clothing for the store. One problem with this idea of qualification is that it views the process as linear. To overcome this, the author draws on Cronin's idea of ‘multiple regimes of mediation’, which emphasizes the many directions and mediations that take place between agents in their qualification of products. To demonstrate this, the author examines three critical encounters buyers have with products, suppliers and consumers. During these encounters, buyers mediate numerous interests, tastes and identities, deal with suppliers and come to ‘know’ their customer(s). Focusing on these encounters provides, in the words of Cronin, for an ‘expanded and nuanced definition of mediation’ and critical analysis of fashion buyers as, to borrow Bourdieu's term, ‘cultural intermediaries’ whose work has been hitherto unexamined.

Official Website: http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0011392106066812
Keywords/subjects not otherwise listed: cultural intermediaries, fashion, mediation, regimes
Publisher/Broadcaster/Company: Sage
Your affiliations with UAL: Colleges > London College of Fashion
Other Affiliations > RAE 2008
Research Centres No Longer Active > Fashion, The Body And Material Cultures Research Centre (FBMC)
Date: 1 September 2006
Funders: ESRC
Digital Object Identifier: 10.1177/0011392106066812
Date Deposited: 02 Dec 2009 15:34
Last Modified: 08 Oct 2015 23:53
Item ID: 1744
URI: https://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/id/eprint/1744

Repository Staff Only: item control page | University Staff: Request a correction