Knitwear in Fashion

Knitwear in Fashion is the first book to comprehensively analyse the development of contemporary knit design in the context of international fashion and contemporary design practice. Drawing on my knowledge and expertise as a knitwear designer and manufacturer, and an academic, the text is distinctive for its analysis of construction techniques (old and new) and synthesis of design, craft, technology and global industry. As a unique hybrid of textiles and fashion disciplines, links between knitwear design and its underlying technology are little understood.

Through integration of text and image, many key aspects are illuminated, such as engineered seamless garments or experimental materials and processes. Publications on knitting have fallen into three types: technology text books (Spencer 2001), craft books of knitting patterns, or histories of hand knitting (Rutt 1987, McDonald 1988). By re-examining the familiar and placing knit design in a thematic framework (technological and fashion innovation, radical knitwear, blurring the boundaries of disciplines.) Knitwear in Fashion positions the under-researched subject of knitting within the textiles and fashion academy. The visual narrative, 300 design images researched and selected personally, is key to my contribution.

Primary design research was conducted in Japan and Europe, triangulating object analysis with semi-structured interviews and technological research in knitwear manufacturers and machine builders. This complemented critical interpretation of images researched from photographers’ archives, contemporary press cuttings and texts, creating a coherent visual and textual exposition.

Second edition published in hardback and paperback in 2005.

Sandy Black

Research Interests

Knitwear, fashion and textiles design with particular emphasis on 3 dimensional aspects of design and realisation, incorporating mathematical principles. Inter-disciplinary design in social and cultural context; Innovation in knitwear particularly 3D and seamless construction; Intersection of arts and science with design; Sustainability issues in fashion and textiles.

Current Research

My current research interests seek to Interrogate Fashion - its practice and design processes. I am developing projects that integrate old and new technologies and seek new ways to approach the design and creation of fashion-related products through the relationship between craft practices and advanced technology. A key concept underpinning this research is the notion developed with the Interrogating Fashion Research Cluster during 2005 of more responsible design that takes into account the wider environmental, ethical, social and individual needs of products and their users.
My personal research continues in knitwear utilising the potential of advanced technology for three-dimensional structures, and in particular the application of mathematical concepts to knitted artefacts and knitwear.

Drawing on my background in both knitwear design and mathematics, I am involved in personal research which is exploring new forms in the realisation of knitwear, using advanced technologies and based on mathematical concepts of topology.

As principal investigator of the EPSRC/AHRC funded Research Cluster 'Interrogating Fashion' I am bringing together academics, fashion and textile designers, computer and material scientists, artists, musicians and researchers to discuss future ideas and changing paradigms for fashion and accessories in the 21st century. With a focus on practice, process and presentation , the research cluster will explore, through workshops and events during the current year, three overlapping themes:

• Digital Fashion? from craft to mass customisation

• The Fashion Paradox: transcience and sustainability

• Fashion in Context: presentation and display, audience and engagement