Fashioning Fabrics: Contemporary Textiles in Fashion

Fashioning Fabrics is a visually led thematic exposition of the importance of fabric innovation in influencing the direction of contemporary fashion design. Fashion books tend to focus on silhouette, cut, concept and trends, whereas traditional textile books have little focus on fashion. Previous publications Extreme Textiles (2005) and Techno Textiles2 (2005) cover applications from aerospace and interiors to medical uses, in addition to fashion. In contrast, Fashioning Fabrics highlights the experimental craft-based approaches which mark out a hybrid territory, bridging fashion and textiles. It addresses the inter-dependence of textiles and fashion, making a new intervention in the literature, from a textile design perspective.

As editor, I shaped the content into four key areas: Embellished, Sculpted, Constructed and Imprinted, covering a range of key fabrications. From my personal knowledge, and new fieldwork including designer interviews, I selected a mix of established and emerging designers for each section. The selection and editing of the visuals was a key contribution to the entire work. Close-up details and work-in-progress images reveal the links between concept, processes and techniques of textile development for fashion, beyond the catwalk image, to create a new visual narrative. This imagery, in conjunction with analytical profiles of the designers’ methods and motivation, conveyed signature elements of their textiles work in context.

My introductory chapter ‘The hidden art of fashion’ discusses the historical development and role of the textile designer, and the hidden aspects of collaborative working within fashion. It contextualises contemporary work within a historical framework of 19th and 20th century Europe, from the development of schools of art and design, early couturiers, the Utility scheme’s ‘good design’ and the post-war surge in new fashion, to the current rejection of mass production for customisation and individuation. This chapter was illustrated with images from my personal collection of fashion textiles.

Sandy Black

Research Interests

Knitwear, fashion and textiles design with particular emphasis on 3 dimensional aspects of design and realisation, incorporating mathematical principles. Inter-disciplinary design in social and cultural context; Innovation in knitwear particularly 3D and seamless construction; Intersection of arts and science with design; Sustainability issues in fashion and textiles.

Current Research

My current research interests seek to Interrogate Fashion - its practice and design processes. I am developing projects that integrate old and new technologies and seek new ways to approach the design and creation of fashion-related products through the relationship between craft practices and advanced technology. A key concept underpinning this research is the notion developed with the Interrogating Fashion Research Cluster during 2005 of more responsible design that takes into account the wider environmental, ethical, social and individual needs of products and their users.
My personal research continues in knitwear utilising the potential of advanced technology for three-dimensional structures, and in particular the application of mathematical concepts to knitted artefacts and knitwear.

Drawing on my background in both knitwear design and mathematics, I am involved in personal research which is exploring new forms in the realisation of knitwear, using advanced technologies and based on mathematical concepts of topology.

As principal investigator of the EPSRC/AHRC funded Research Cluster 'Interrogating Fashion' I am bringing together academics, fashion and textile designers, computer and material scientists, artists, musicians and researchers to discuss future ideas and changing paradigms for fashion and accessories in the 21st century. With a focus on practice, process and presentation , the research cluster will explore, through workshops and events during the current year, three overlapping themes:

• Digital Fashion? from craft to mass customisation

• The Fashion Paradox: transcience and sustainability

• Fashion in Context: presentation and display, audience and engagement