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UAL Research Online

Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics

Delice, Serkan (2022) Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics. Fashion Theory. ISSN 1751-7419

Type of Research: Article
Creators: Delice, Serkan

Ideas and concepts have their own lives and resilience, to which one should be sensitive. This article focuses on the ways in which a group of Indian artisan organizations and collectives deploy—in their critical exchange with a designer, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, and a retailer, H&M, who both have privileged access to the transnationally circulating capital—the concept of appropriation as a tool to confront the hierarchical divisions of labor, and the unequal distribution of capital, within the globalized circuits of transnational fashion production. In bringing together Karl Marx’s critique of the appropriation of living labor by objectified labor and David Harvey’s critical expose of the new mechanisms of “accumulation by dispossession,” and connecting these labor-focused perspectives on appropriation to the phenomenon of so-called cultural appropriation, the following investigates the potentiality of appropriation in facilitating a transnational labor ethics that defies the problematic segregation of the “design” and “creative” processes from the increasingly alienated and absorbed productive forces of the dispossessed artisan and craft communities.

Official Website: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869
Keywords/subjects not otherwise listed: appropriation, labor, alienation, fashion production, transnationality, ethics
Publisher/Broadcaster/Company: Routledge
Your affiliations with UAL: Colleges > London College of Fashion
Research Groups > Historical and Cultural Studies
Date: 4 April 2022
Digital Object Identifier: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869
Date Deposited: 03 May 2022 12:16
Last Modified: 03 May 2022 12:16
Item ID: 18097
URI: https://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/id/eprint/18097

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