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UAL Research Online

Moscow on the fashion map: between periphery and centre

Bartlett, Djurdja (2011) Moscow on the fashion map: between periphery and centre. Studies in East European Thought, 63 (2). pp. 111-121. ISSN 09259392/15730948

Type of Research: Article
Creators: Bartlett, Djurdja

This essay considers Moscow’s simultaneously peripheral and central position on the global fashion map. It is predicated on a study of imaginary Russian geographies presented in Vogue and other fashion media, advertisements and promotional activities by important fashion brands, as well as the promotional texts and visuals of several new Russian fashion designers. While these different players all contribute to shaping the imagery of Russian fashion today, their agendas and aesthetics differ. This essay identifies three main approaches within the field of the symbolic production of Russian fashion. Western fashion designers and fashion media mainly rely on Russian imperial sartorial heritage in their orientalising approach to Russian fashion.

Secondly, Russian Vogue perpetuates Moscow’s peripheral international fashion position either by passively transmitting derivative Western representations of Russianness, or by reconstructing its own high-fashion versions of traditional Russian decorative style. Finally, several young Russian fashion designers deconstruct both traditional Russian and socialist iconography.

Official Website: http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11212-011-9138-y
Keywords/subjects not otherwise listed: auto-exoticism, centre, fashion designer, fashion quotation, high-fashion ethnic, orientalism, periphery, picturesque, symbolic production of fashion, Vogue
Publisher/Broadcaster/Company: Springer Verlag
Your affiliations with UAL: Colleges > London College of Fashion
Date: September 2011
Copyright Holders: Springer Science and Business Media B.V. 2011
Digital Object Identifier: 10.1007/s11212-011-9138-y
Projects or Series: Research Outputs Review (April 2010 - April 2011)
Date Deposited: 26 Jan 2012 10:40
Last Modified: 04 Sep 2015 20:58
Item ID: 4551
URI: https://ualresearchonline.arts.ac.uk/id/eprint/4551

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