Effects of Polymer Entrapment of Prunus Spinosa Fruit Extract on its Cosmetic Efficacy

Cosmetic science is a science-based, but fashion-led discipline. It covers a wide range of intersecting subjects, including biological sciences, dermatology, applied chemistry and physics.

This study was performed as a part of my sabbatical research project, funded by the University of the Arts, London. The research question was to assess whether there was any difference in performance of plant extracts in cosmetic products when encapsulated, in comparison with their ‘native’ state. This work was carried out within the context of my research in topically applied plant extracts.

Plant extracts are known to have problematic stability profiles, because of the number and types of organic components originating from plant material. One approach to increase their stability is the use of novel technology. This work explored the use of a new microparticulate delivery system, for which the manufacturer stated that it provided a ‘reservoir’ for the sustained release of actives. However, the above claim was not supported by independent academic research, hence my decision to undertake the study.

An active ingredient used in this study was a propylene glycol extract of the fruit of Prunus spinosa (blackthorn). My specific aim was to assess whether, and to which extent, the polymer entrapment affected its skin efficacy. Skin performance was evaluated by the changes in skin hydration and biomechanical parameters, assessed by randomised in-vivo tests. All experiments were conducted in the Cosmetic Science laboratory at London College of Fashion.

Overall, this study has not revealed conclusive evidence that polymer entrapment of blackthorn fruit extract provides better skin performance. However, it was clear that the process did not hinder its moisturising and biomechanical potential, which is an important fact in the formulation practice.

Dr Slobodanka (Danka) Tamburic is a Reader in Cosmetic Science and a Programme Director for Cosmetic Science courses at London College of Fashion.

She has a background in Pharmacy, with an MSc in Pharmaceutical Technology and a PhD in Pharmaceutical Sciences. This was followed by three years of post-doctoral experience at the Centre for Materials Science, School of Pharmacy London. In the year 2000, she started the first graduate course in the UK solely devoted to the cosmetic industry - the BSc (Hons) in Cosmetic Science at London College of Fashion. Her current research encompasses the following strands:

* Exploring the efficacy of cosmetic products using skin bio-engineering methods (non-invasive in vivo testing)
* Evaluating internal structure of semisolid systems for cosmetic and pharmaceutical application and its effect on product efficacy
* Exploring the use of novel technology (especially nanotechnology) in cosmetics
* Biotechnological approach as a method for obtaining novel multifunctional cosmetic ingredients