Tensile Tester

In the garment-production process, reverse engineering the 3-D designed garment pattern in a virtual realm, into the 2-D pattern pieces, is problematic. My area of research is in producing robust 2-D pattern profiles that can be passed onto the 3-D virtual environment. I have developed a different approach to custom-fit garment pattern design, based on new pattern drafting coordinates cooperating with fabric stretch characteristics, conforming to the shape of a person, using a personally extended set of traditional measurements.

Currently, assessing fabric stretch extension for pattern construction is dependent on subjective expertise. Industry standards use laboratory- based electronic testing instruments for the climatically controlled measurement of tensile characteristics of cut samples, but these are for QA/QC, which is inappropriate for pattern construction.

The aim was to develop a simple qualitative and quantitative procedure for objectively measuring, recording and specifying fabric characteristics that can be implemented for pattern design. The method used to determine the specific force/load involved laboratory pre-test conditioning of sample fabrics in differing weights and percentages of elastane, which were then subject to electronic tensile testing. Having established a force/load working range, a hanger/load test method was devised and used in the development of a new approach to stretch pattern design.

The invention is a compact, portable testing instrument that measures the degree of extension of planar materials having a low modulus of elasticity, such as stretch fabrics containing elastane. The unique feature of the invention is the fabric clamping arrangement. The measurement procedure need not be subject to laboratory conditions. Measurements can be taken on a portion of fabric that may form part of a roll of fabric, a made-up garment or a cut sample.

The hand-held device for quantifying fabric stretch extension can be used in haptic practices or inputted into a CAD system.

Penelope Watkins' Current Research

My background is 3D design and technical fashion. My enduring passion is in merging technical and aesthetic considerations providing comfort - physiological and psychological - and ease of movement, through appropriate garment fit. I am interested in integrating craft based techniques and emerging new technologies from body scanning to virtual CAD.
My current research is developing new approaches to pattern design based on bodyshape and proportions. For clarity I have introduced 2 new terms to describe the proximity of the garment fit to the body- Distal and Proximal Fit. Distal fit is situated away from the body contour and has ease allowance to accommodate voluntary and involuntary movements like breathing. Proximal Form Fit is where the body contour becomes the zero proximal reference point. The proximal fit ranges from the reference point through an increasingly compressive stretch fit towards the body's epicenter. To achieve this the degree of fabric stretch is quantified and applied in a pattern reduction process. The derived pattern profile uses direct body measurements to replicate the body shape and proportions. This approach can be applied to a variety of clothing types. Bodyshape measurement is key in developing garment pattern profiles not only for mass personalisation but also for new shape/sizing systems.

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