Circular Speeds: A Review of Fast & Slow Sustainable Design Approaches for Fashion & Textile Applications

In this paper, developed by a group of design researchers at UAL, we define circular design in the context of a sustainable fashion system and consider how a polarisation of thinking in relation to “speeds” has occurred. By reflecting on the practice outcomes produced as part of the Textile Toolbox in Mistra Future Fashion (MFF) Phase 1, we question the idea of “circular speeds” for textile design and analyse concepts which relate to “super-slow” and “fast-forward” approaches. The MFF programme’s cross-disciplinary approach brings together design and scientific researchers with industry experts in a bid to understand and recognise the potential for design in creating a circular fashion future at multiple lifecycle speeds.

We review the historical context of “slow” before presenting contemporary case studies from industry which relate to one of three key approaches defined as a framework for “super-slow” design. We also review the current context of “fast” before presenting contemporary case studies from industry which point towards the potential for redefining the “fast” context in fashion by relating it to circular strategies and material recovery possibilities. Again these themes are presented in a framework of three key approaches for “fast-forward” design.

Finally, we bring together the analysis of both fast and slow and a single proposition for designing for the circular economy and as a starting point for the work to be developed by the design researchers. We discuss synergies and trade offs between the approaches and suggest a middle ground for future investigation. Through this process we aim to generate insights about design that can be applied and tested by others. By reviewing current industry approaches and activity alongside academic design research, we propose a useful framework to demonstrate that the lens of speed can offer new opportunities towards a more sustainable industry.

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