Fashion Innovation System Policy: Probing regional innovation systems to optimise digital manufacturing for fashion designers

Departing from the conventional 'one-size-fits-all' model, a novel approach to Regional Innovation Systems (RIS) has emerged, acknowledging the diverse traits of regions and sectors, thereby giving rise to RIS pathway approaches. In mature industries, particularly the fashion sector, innovation resistance poses a significant challenge among industrial actors. This study investigates the adoption of apparel digital manufacturing (ADM), specifically utilising 3D design software, as a strategic response to the costing challenges faced by Designer Fashion Enterprises (DFEs) to mitigate the risk of business failures. However, the prevalence of innovation resistance necessitates political interventions to optimise the implementation of ADM practices. Governmentsponsored fashion RIS initiatives in Seoul and London are actively working to establish digital manufacturing hubs, indicating a strategic push towards technological advancement. This research aims to identify optimal ADM practices for DFEs in these two cities, enhancing RIS performance. The study employs cross-cultural case studies to assess the practicality of ADM, utilising a comprehensive data collection approach encompassing a survey (n = 352), in-depth interviews (n = 30), and observational analysis (n = 10). Findings from the research reveal three key drivers for change: business competitiveness, process innovation, and ease of implementation. Conversely, identified barriers to innovation adoption include the perceived complexity of implementation, compromise of authenticity, lack of requisite knowledge and facilities, and inertia. This study contributes valuable insights to theoretical understanding and practical implementation and establishes a noteworthy correlation between Hofstede's power distance levels and the adoption of fashion innovation. The research emphasises systemic issues within fashion RIS that fail to effectively address innovation resistance factors among incumbent firms. Recommendations include advocating for patternmakers to acquire 3D technology skills to enhance ADM practices and improve educational services for pattern designers. This research offers significant contributions to RIS theory, guiding both researchers exploring actor-based and system-based approaches, policymakers aiming to enhance RIS performance, and stakeholders interested in the intersection of fashion and technology.

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