Fashion, Export and World War Two

The British fashion industry was gravely affected by World War Two. The industry experienced labour and material shortages, and many businesses, largely based in London’s West End, saw their premises destroyed. Despite these challenges, British manufacturers continued to produce fashionable garments for home and export markets throughout the war. Exports were important for the fashion industry’s survival, but lucrative export markets like the United States became challenging to reach.

In order to try and maintain international customers fashion manufacturers staged several innovative trade drives during WWII. This paper focuses on one drive, the 1941 ‘Women’s Fashion Export Group of Great Britain’ (FEG) export drive to North America. The mission saw around 2,000 garments from over eighty British manufacturers exhibited in New York with store buyers travelling from across North America to view garments.

Studying the garments produced for the drive and associated advertising and editorials this paper explores the importance of this drive in promoting London as a ready-to-wear ‘fashion centre’ and establishing British fashion distinctiveness during the war. It also queries how straitened conditions helped engender collaboration across the British fashion industry.

This paper also considers the significance of Percy Trilnick, who led the export drive. Trilnick had worked in the United States and also imported American fashions to sell in Britain. However, when war struck Trilnick was forced to manufacture in London. With his experience of the American industry, he saw an opportunity to export high-quality British fashions to America and planned the 1941 export drive with other key industry figures.

The 1941 drive was very successful. However, whilst the FEG planned similar drives, owing to the increasing challenges of WWII, no more took place. This paper finally questions the legacy of the 1941 drive and how it inspired post-war export initiatives.