Scaling Circularity: A product inventory classification method for design for recycling

A circular textile economy relies on good quality feedstock that can be adequately transformed into new resources after an extended lifecycle (McKinsey, 2022). Currently, few products are designed for recycling, and those which are, cannot be identified easily. Systemic design for recycling is therefore key to achieving circularity (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). Efforts to increase circularity as part of broader impact reduction measures are under way across the sector (Circle Economy, 2024) but currently take a product-by-product approach (WRAP, 2023). The Scaling Circularity project aims to multiply the impact of design for recycling by developing a method for the classification of inventory based on recyclability criteria.

The method relies on a logic model that connects product inventory data such as garment types and fibre contents to the parameters for recyclability set by selected textile-to-textile recyclers. The research team’s competencies span circular design and data science, therefore connecting a tacit understanding of barriers to recycling with the development of a quantitative classification system. Direct collaboration with a large-scale fashion retailer to delve into the formats and specificities of product inventory further contribute to anchoring this research within the realities of the industry.

The classification results in three main categories for garments. In the first category are items ‘ready to be recycled’ which currently fit specific recyclers’ parameters for fibre content and do not include disruptors in their design. These products can be certified for recycling as they are, and when they reach end-of-life as non-re-wearable textile waste, then can be recycled into new fibres. The second category covers garments which ‘can be recycled after redesign for recycling’. These have disruptors to recycling in their current form but could be modified so that the next version to reach market would be recyclable. They typically include small portions of ‘other fibres’ not accepted by recyclers which could be designed out without affecting functionality, or include disruptive trims such as buttons or zips that could be replaced by recyclable trims or designed out without changing the appeal of the product. The third category presents clothing with important challenges to recyclability, where redesigning would significantly alter the functionality or the look of the piece. These are ill-adapted to a design for recycling approach and other strategies such as design for longevity are recommended.

The aim of this classification is to support industry decision makers in targeting circularity efforts to the most meaningful product categories. It is apparent that an industry-wide lag in accurate data collection is hindering a shift to sustainable practices (Mutambo et al., 2024). The classification method identifies a proportion of garments for which certification is a key priority, those which can be reviewed for redesign, and those which can be tabled for later. This method offers a first point of call to frame a circularity strategy. Further scrutiny will need to be applied beyond the initial classification, to confirm that no disruptors not mentioned in the product inventory are present in products.