Cosmeceuticals: definitions, regulations and a review of the market (part 1)

With the increasing longevity and quality of life of the global population, a youthful and healthy looking skin has become increasingly important for people to feel confident in their social interactions. Consumers are also looking for more cost-effective non-invasive methods, such as the use of cosmetic products, to improve the appearance of their skin. The rapidly evolving knowledge of skin physiology and its functional deterioration with age has led to the continuous development of active compounds and topical formulations that may induce the recovery of biological functions affected by age. Strong claims linked to active compounds are made in order to persuade the consumer of their efficacy. The term ’active compounds’ also refers to substances incorporated in a formulation to create a biological effect that would not be elicited from its vehicle alone.

The term ’cosmeceutical’ has been introduced by the cosmetics industry to describe an ingredient / product that has a measurable biological action in the skin like a pharmaceutical product, but is regulated as a cosmetic product since it claims to affect appearance. Indeed, the difference between some cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is shrinking, as the cosmetics industry invests heavily in Research & Development, allowing it to perform increasingly cutting-edge research and launch cosmetic products of high quality standards coupled with high safety of use. Conversely, the cosmetics industry does not want to be involved with the regulatory burden and costs associated with drug development. A recent report highlighted a strong growth for cosmeceuticals and forecast that this market will reach $42.4 billion by 2018.